(This will help prevent the fabric being pushed down into the machine by the needle.) Knit neckbands are an essential part of almost any knit shirt. It is usually sewn in the round. SUPPLIES. Once attached, it will ping back to it’s original size and in the process it will pull the neckline inwards slightly; and this action is what allows the neckband to sit flat against the body. Wooly Nylon Thread (aka fluff thread). When … (This will secure the threads and create a clean look on the right side of the garment.). 1. 3. Stitch the neckband to the bodice, using a stretch stitch, narrow zigzag stitch or overlocker. Press the seam allowance open. Next divide the neckline and the neckband ring into quarters. By hand, loosely wind wooly nylon thread around bobbin. Taught by Lisa . Place garment under needle, lower presser foot and stitch. Due to its wide, oversized body width, the Tabor V-Nec You can use the zig zag stitch on your sewing machine, or a twin needle! If desired, you can also topstitch with a stretch stitch just under the neckline seam to help the seam allowances lay flat. It's a loose-fitting drop shoulder tee, built for comfort while still looking smart. The fabric can bunch up, get stuck in the throat plate and the stitch length will be uneven and wobbly. Yay! You can topstitch along the seam, on the body of the sweater, using either a zig zag stitch or double needle. Also be careful not to stretch the neck edge while you sew. A good length is usually about a 4 on the dial. Neckband option 2 is suitable for knits with a little less stretch like the Organic Cotton Knit Ultra. To create a stretchy topstitch, use a twin needle or a zig zag stitch. Happy sewing! Tutorials. How to attach a neckband in the flat. I first tried a twin needle when I was in high school and I just couldn’t get it to work. But there’s so many more ways to sew a t-shirt neckline! Pro tip: Neckband option 1 is for a jersey knit or ribbing. And don't worry, you don't need a fancy machine, this can all be done on a conventional sewing machine. 2. There are varying widths of twin needles so you can have a little fun and try different looks. Now you need to decide how tall you want your neckband. All photos and contents on this site are copyrighted by the author, Megan Nielsen, unless otherwise noted. This method can be used on hems or to finish a neck or arm binding. Please share in the comments. You can attach a neckline band to any tee using either ribbing, self fabric or contrast fabric. Lisa. A basic sewing machine does a great job of feeding your woven fabric under the needle but it can be challenging to feed a stretchy knit fabric. The grey bodice above has a band.A binding has a similar function, but looks more like the bias binding you’d find on a woven garme… Cut a 2″ wide strip of fabric. Fold the neckband in half and sew with a quarter inch seam allowance. At end of stitching, raise presser foot, pinch garment at stitching line and pull away from the machine about 8 inches. Topstitch is made from the top of the fabric and you get to see how you are stitching all along – but that does not make a Top stitch great – you need some tips and tricks for a perfect topstitch. How to Topstitch Knit Fabric. This one — adding a standard knit neckband — will be the first of the three. Repeat with threads at beginning of stitching. 3. The band is cut shorter,then the stretch inherent in the knit fabric is used to ease it onto the neckline. And you might want to do a test fit in the neckline of the sweatshirt, using lots of pins. ; For a super stretchy rib knit you might have to go below 70%, but remember that if the rib knit is … I have two methods for helping feed your fabric through a conventional machine. When using regular thread in the bobbin, the two top threads can pull together a little and create a ridge. But I finally gave it another go, read the manual and now I love it. Now that you have all the background you’re ready to topstitch your knits! Different machines behave differently and you may need to play around and adjust your techniques to find the method that works best for your machine. Do not cut on the bias but instead cut side-to-side. ... Knit fabrics are almost always top stitched with a twin needle stitching.This reinforces the edge and avoids the wavy look. Topstitch around a neckband. The paper creates a stable base for the fabric that the feed dogs can grab onto and push under the needle. Finish it off with a topstitch. For the Women’s Page I have drafted a 7/8″ (2 cm) tall neckband, and for the Mini Page I have drafted a 5/8″ (1.5 cm) tall neckband. A good, steamy iron can help a lot in sewing, especially when it comes to a neckband in knit fabrics – the steam will help the neckband shrink back down to size and sit nice and flat. Cut the pattern as usual. It’s a stretchy thread that will help your stitching lay flat. Then fold the neckband again and press with a warm iron. I have one spool in off white and one in black and that's so far worked well for any project. The twin needle has two threads on the top and one on the bottom (the bobbin). Set your machine to a straight stitch. Now, you could master the classic knit neckband which is a worthy goal. It should be flat and smooth. I used a twin needle to topstitch mine. A good rule of thumb for a regular crew neck t-shirt opening is to make the neckband piece around 70-75% of the neckline circumference. A thinner tissue knit or rayon knit would be much more challenging due to the curl factor. The zig zag stitch is also a great option for topstitching. If videos aren’t your thing, I have an older blog post about twin needles here. Taught by Lisa . Taught by Lisa . Tutorials. Attach walking foot to machine and insert twin needle. Step 16: Turn the neckband up. I made a size 2 for the tutorial (not my actual size – I need an 8 for my broad shoulders! Also a note – the pattern recommends using a ribbing fabric for the neckband, cuffs, and hem band of view A. For really thick fabrics you may go all the way up to a 5. So far I've only used it in the bobbin when topstitching and I totally love it. Watch the video above or on YouTube here. Free. I hope these tips will help you in your sewing adventures. And the bodice has you well covered. The wooly nylon thread is a stretchy thread that's made up of multiple strands. Trim ends. "), Sewing Machine with Walking Foot(or if you don’t have a walking foot, some strips of tissue paper as discussed above). Your fabric is going to stretch as you wear it, so you want your stitches to stretch too. Free. 5. Dec 31, 2015 - Today we’ll be covering how to add a neckline band – the most common neckline finish you’ll see on tshirts. With many different options for sleeves, necklines and body lengths, you can make a Tabor V-neck for every season. And sometimes the zig zag looks really cool. Today, I’m going to share my favorite method for topstitching knit fabrics plus some tips and insight on why knits can be so bothersome. Lisa. The seam allowance is turned to the wrong side. Neckbands may seem tricky and intimidating to a beginner sewist. If the thread can't stretch, the stitching can break (you can actually hear a pop when this happens). If you want more info on sewing with knits I recommend a couple of books that have really helped me: Sew U Home Stretch by Wendy Mullin and The Colette Guide to Sewing Knits by Alyson Clair. You can either sew on the top side, the band side or straddle the seam – i’ve seen it done all ways :) Remember: you don’t need an overlocker or serger to sew with jersey. Gently pull the ends of the top threads to the wrong side and tie in a knot with bobbin thread. Press the seam allowance toward the shirt and the neckband away from the shirt. Find the shoulder point of your neckband by looking at the shirt neckline, then mimic the shape with your band. Option 2, (if you don’t have a walking foot) place strips of tissue paper underneath your fabric as you stitch. My machine (Brother CS-6000i) has specific threading instructions for using a twin needle and I recommend reading your manual to make sure you do it the way your machine likes. If you’re new to installing a knit neckband, I highly recommend starting with a jersey knit like this, it makes the process much easier. Sewing a clean t-shirt neckline can be the start of getting your handmade knit garments to have a finish you can be proud of. Tasi Robe and Jacket - A Draft-it-Yourself PDF Pattern. The bobbin thread will be slightly stretched between the two top threads. (I like to use a 3.0 stitch length, just slightly longer than normal.). I’ve seen some cool ready-to-wear inspiration with tall neckbands lately. Best suited for light to mid weight jersey knit. The Tabor V-neck is an all seasons t-shirt and sweater for knits. Begin by placing a pin at the seam of the neckband; this will match up with the center bodice back. Now unfold the neckband and sew the 2 short edges together with a 3/8″ seam allowance. 2 spools regular thread (You don't need to buy to full spools of the regular, just wind up a bobbin with the regular thread to use as the second "spool. I automatically did it (sewing all those knit shirts from Ottobre has paid off!) The height of the neckband is a personal preference. I was intimidated by them for a long time but with a lot of practice and a few tricks I picked up along the way, I’ve been able to conquer those stretchy beasts. £5.00. Here I stitched it in place first, then finished the edge with the serger. Next, we can pin the neckband to the shirt, but first we need to mark some key points to match up. With the bodice right side up, topstitch the seam allowances to the bodice close to the seam line with a wide and even zigzag (2 x 2mm or 2.5 x 2.5mm). You don’t need a fancy machine but I do recommend a few supplies. Refashioning has taught me a lot about how ready-to-wear deals with binding knit edges. Topstitch the binding in place by sewing close to the outer fold on the bias tape. It looks a little less professional than the twin needle but if your thread matches the fabric quite well you probably won't be able to see the stitching anyway. Fortunately, I’ve got you covered on that too. Mine rarely is! Press the t-shirt neckline seam towards the body of the t-shirt. Cut thread leaving a 4-5 inch tail. I really love the wider needle but if I'm topstitching a narrow seam allowance in place (like on a neckline) I prefer the narrower needle. I was scared to do it again for a long time after that because it didn’t work just that one time. And remember it's ok if your topstitching isn't perfect. One needle on the neckband and one on the yoke. Free. This happens to be the default way the neckband is finished in my Flashback Skinny Tee sewing pattern, though that pattern also includes a few other alternate neckline finishes as well. If your sweatshirt is a pullover, take a minute to make sure that you can get the new neckband over your head. Twin Sewing Needle. Thread machine according to your machine’s manual. Introduction to sewing with knit fabrics. A twin needle is the best way to get two lines of stitching that are perfectly spaced from each other. Discovering this thread was something of a revelation. First, let’s clear up a little terminology.A band is a length of fabric that’s folded in half and stitched into an opening. Option 1, use a walking foot (on left in photo above) when stitching knits. Above you can see the 2mm on the left and a 4mm on the right. Sew the pattern according to the instructions until you get to the point where you will sew a narrow hem on the neckband. All tutorials and patterns are copyrighted by Megan Nielsen. Optionally, topstitch the seam allowance with a … Instructions to attach neckband on a knit fabric: 1. Gently stretch the neckband to fit between the pins, taking care not to stretch the bodice neckline. Stitch the neckband to the neckline with a stretch stitch or serger. I hold the front fabric with my right hand and the back fabric with my left hand to stretch the neckband as I sew. Do you have any tips or tricks for stitching knits? Knit fabrics can vary a lot in stretch percentage, and you would have to re-calculate to make the neckband fit perfectly. If you look at any t-shirt you own, it will probably have a band around the neck. Taught by Lisa . 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